You can always go downtown

Bäco by Josef Centeno and Betty Hallock

The first meal Josh and I ate in downtown Los Angeles was at the counter of Bäco Mercat, down the street from the Biltmore hotel where we were staying, and where the company we worked for had their offices. This was more than 5 years ago but I remember the bartender was friendly, and a man at the end of the counter said he drove in regularly to share a whole chicken with his dinner guest. We had cocktails and a tuna tartar that was the kind of fresh you don’t get in landlocked Toronto. Bäco is elegant and relaxed. It’s the kind of place you where you remember your meal, but you also remember what it felt to be there. I saw this cookbook in a second hand bookstore. It was a pre-release copy that I snatched off the shelf the instant I saw the spine, without even opening it to see the recipes inside. That was back in March, and I waited until the farmers markets opened and fresh produce started flowing before digging in. These recipes are definitely not simple but they’re also not overly technical. I hope you like the ones I chose, and that you take a chance on this plan because it’s well worth it.

 

The recipes

Classic meal prep logic is that you want to prep foods that are versatile and can be used in multiple recipes, reducing the time to cook daily. The formula is usually: a grain, a protein, a salad dressing, a soup, sometimes a casserole or quiche or something that can be reheated. This is the extreme version of that. You can see in the prep we have dressings (2), spice blends (2) and a couple of proteins. The book actually combines these flavours in different recipes making my job way easier.


Prep

Spice blends
Berberé
Urfa biber shichimi togarashi

Soup
Dashi concentrate

Pulses
Fava hummus with mint and pecorino cheese
Eggplant purée with sumac and garlic

Dressings
Adjika vinaigrette
Yuzu-dashi vinaigrette

Protein
Baked fenugreek-nigella pork and beef meatballs
Berbere-cured trout

Lunches

Lebni with eggplant purée, fava “hummus,” and za'atar

Tuscan kale with berberé-spiced meatballs and sherry raisins

Slow-roasted berberé-cured ocean trout with lemon tempura and citrus and olive salad


Drinks & Desserts

Blackberry sesame cake with cardamom sugar

Blackberry-Thai basil fruit mash

Dinners

Hamachi crudo with adjika, yuzu-dashi vinaigrette, avocado, and potato croquettes

Tomato-dill pappardelle with berberé spiced meatballs and caraway bread crumbs

Sichuan pepper lamb top round with English pea and parsley salad

 

Leftovers

I try to keep the leftovers to a minimum, but you will have some vegetables, including a head of celery if you are only using the leaves, adjika and yuzu-dashi vinaigrette, fava hummus and eggplant purée (the last two are going to probably get eaten pretty fast with that country bread). You’ll have breadcrumbs left over. Sprinkle them over everything. You can make a beautiful soup by diluting some dashi concentrate and adding in leftover veggies, rehydrated shiitakes, some meat or frozen dumplings and don’t forget to sprinkle with urfa biber shichimi togarashi!

 
 

Shopping list

I always assume you have salt, pepper, olive oil, and flour. The * stars indicate optional ingredients. I will include substitutes throughout.

 

Vegetables & fruits

Fava beans (400g whole, 100g shelled)
Avocado
Thai chile
Blackberries
French breakfast radishes
Yellow onion
Tuscan kale
Fresh lime juice
Garlic
Grapefruit (1)
Japanese eggplants (125g)
Lemons (6)
Oranges (2)
Pineapple
Red onion (1)
Russet potatoes (285g )
Shallots
Scallions
English peas


Spices, etc.

Ground sansho
Aleppo pepper
Whole allspice
Black pepper
Caraway seeds
Coriander seeds
Red pepper flakes
Black sesame seeds*
Cardamom seeds
Cubeb pepper*
Cumin seeds
Dried arbol chile
Dried fenugreek leaves
Piment d'espelette*
Garlic powder
Ground cinnamon
Ground ginger
Nigella seeds
Onion powder
Dried orange peel
Sichuan peppercorns
Ground sumac
Sweet paprika
Ground turmeric
Urfa biber
White sesame seeds
Whole cloves
Yellow mustard seeds
Za’atar


Herbs

Basil
Chives
Cilantro
Dill
Oregano
Thyme
Mint
Parsley
Tarragon
Thai Basil


Dairy & Freezer

Butter
Crème fraîche
Eggs (7)
Pecorino cheese
Plain yogurt (500g)
Aged white cheddar
Whole milk (250ml)


Pantry

Dried nori
Golden raisins
Dried shiitake mushrooms
Prepared horseradish
Kombu
Calabrian chiles
Piquillo pepper
Yuzu juice
Loaf of country bread
Bonito flakes
Oil or dry cured black olives (40g)
Currants
Pine nuts


Baking

Baking powder
Baking soda
Coconut blossom sugar
Cornstarch
Flour
Sugar


Oils & Vinegars & Sauces

Avocado oil*
Extra-virgin olive oil
Mirin
Olive oil
Rice vinegar
Sherry vinegar
Soy sauce
Sesame paste
White miso


Meat

Ground beef (455g)
Lamb, top round (300g)
Ground pork (455g)
Ocean trout fillet (200g)
Hamachi (140g)


Booze

Dry sherry
Dry white wine
Sake
Soda water


*optional

Prep

Mise en place
30 mins

For the fava puree: To shell fava beans, open the pods along their seams and remove the beans. Blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds and transfer them to an ice bath to stop the cooking. Slip off the waxy coating. At the end you should have 100g fava beans.

For the breadcrumbs: Remove the crust from 115g (4 oz) country white bread and tear into 1-in, 2.5 cm pieces. Tie 5 sprigs of thyme with kitchen twine. Grate ⅛ cup (15g) pecorino cheese.

I’m going to make an unscientific statement that the reason why fava beans are the epitome of “fresh flavour” is because they are doubly protected by the hull of the bean as well as this outer casing that definitely needs to be removed as I definitely found out the first time I made fava beans and tried to eat them in this state.

I’m going to make an unscientific statement that the reason why fava beans are the epitome of “fresh flavour” is because they are doubly protected by the hull of the bean as well as this outer casing that definitely needs to be removed as I definitely found out the first time I made fava beans and tried to eat them in this state.

Start cooking
4 hours

Start by making some labneh (lebni)
Mix about 300g (1 cup) yoghurt with 3/4 tsp salt. Line a seive with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Pour the salted yoghurt in it. Let this sit for 2-3 hours while you prep the rest of the food. When it’s done, it should have the consistency of soft butter.


Make the berberé spice

Toast 1 ½ Tbsp cumin seeds, 2 tsp caraway seeds, 2 tsp cardamom seeds, and 2 tsp coriander seeds in a hot dry skillet until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl. Toast 1 ½ Tbsp cubeb pepper, 1 tsp whole allspice and 1 tsp whole cloves in the skillet until fragrant. Grind all the spices in a spice grinder into a coarse powder. Mix together with 2 Tbsp dried fenugreek leaves, 3 Tbsp aleppo pepper, 2 Tbsp sweet paprika, 2 tsp ground ginger, 2 tsp ground turmeric, 2 tsp salt, and 1 tsp ground cinnamon. Store in an airtight container.

Note — if you skipped the cubeb pepper on your grocery list, substitute with 1:1 mix of black pepper and allspice or grains of paradise


Make the dashi concentrate
Combine 8 cups water, 1 cup sake, ¾ cup (35g) dried shiitake mushrooms, 1 onion halved crosswise, 1/2 head garlic halved crosswise, 20g kombu, ¼ cup (60ml) soy sauce, ¼ cup (60ml) mirin, 3 Tbsp salt, and 1 Tbsp rice vinegar in a stockpot and bring to near boiling over high heat. (Do not boil!)

Turn the heat to medium-low and add 1 ½ cups (40g) bonito flakes. Simmer for 10 minutes, then carefully remove the kombu with tongs or chopsticks and discard or reserve for another use. Continue to simmer until the stock has reduced by nearly half, about 45 minutes.


Meanwhile, make the Urfa biber shichimi togarashi
Toast 2 Tbsp black or white sesame seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Mix the 3 Tbsp dried shredded nori, 2 Tbsp dried orange peel, 2 Tbsp urfa biber, 2 Tbsp aleppo pepper, 1 tsp ground sansho, ¼ tsp coconut blossom sugar and ¼ tsp salt in a bowl. Store in a covered container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 month.


Strain the dashi
Carefully strain the dashi, reserving the liquid and discarding the solids. Store 1/2 cup in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week and freeze the rest for up to 1 month. Dashi normally doesn't freeze well, but this concentrated version does; freeze it in ice cube trays if you want to use a little at a time.


Make the caraway breadcrumbs
You’ll use some of these for the meatballs and the rest later in the week: Heat the oven to 400°F [200°C). Heat 1 Tbsp butter, 1 Tbsp oil, the thyme, 1/2 clove of garlic, and 1 tsp caraway in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. When the butter begins to foam, add all of the bread and toast, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes.

Transfer the contents of the frying pan to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle ⅛ cup (15g) grated pecorino cheese, ¼ tsp salt, and a few cracks of pepper evenly over the toasted bread.

Bake until crunchy throughout and dark golden brown, about 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheet and stirring the croutons once during cooking.

Remove from the oven and cool completely. Discard the thyme sprigs and garlic clove. Pulse the croutons in a food processor 10 to 12 times until coarsely ground. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.


Use the dashi to make a vinaigrette
Whisk together 1/4 cup (60ml) dashi concentrate, 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, and 2 tbsp yuzu juice. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

In my continued advocacy for making things that are time consuming but dead simple, knowing how to make labneh is something I plan to lean on in the future when I want a thick savoury yoghurt for a dish.

In my continued advocacy for making things that are time consuming but dead simple, knowing how to make labneh is something I plan to lean on in the future when I want a thick savoury yoghurt for a dish.

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The fava beans I got were slightly out of season so I was looking at a super low yield. It was enough ultimately for the meal without leftovers but I learned my lesson about eating out of season!

The fava beans I got were slightly out of season so I was looking at a super low yield. It was enough ultimately for the meal without leftovers but I learned my lesson about eating out of season!

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Make the Adjika vinaigrette
Toast ½ tsp coriander seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Put the ground coriander in a medium bowl and set aside.

One ingredient at a time, finely chop ½ Tbsp dried fenugreek, ½ Tbsp fresh oregano, 4 basil leaves, ⅛ cup cilantro, ⅛ cup celery leaves, and 1 small clove garlic, adding them to the bowl as you go.

Wearing gloves, finely chop ½ seeded Thai chile, ½ jarred piquillo pepper, and 2 Calabrian chiles and add to the bowl. Gently stir in ⅛ cup (30ml) olive oil and ½ Tbsp sherry vinegar.

The jarred peppers can be fairly salty, so taste the vinaigrette and season with salt as needed. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.


Make the fava hummus
Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice water. Set aside. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the fava beans and blanch until bright green and al dente, about 1 minute. Drain the fava beans and transfer to the ice bath to cool.

Drain the fava beans again and put them in a food processor. Add the ⅛ cup (15g) grated pecorino cheese, ⅛ cup (2g) fresh mint leaves, the zest of 1/4 lemon, and 1 tsp lemon juice and pulse until blended. Drizzle in 1 tbsp olive oil as you continue to pulse to a coarse purée. You can store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, so make sure to use them on day one.


Make the eggplant pureé
Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Cut 125g (1.5, 4.5 oz) japanese eggplants crosswise into 1/2-in [12-mm] slices, discarding the stem ends. Heat 1 ½ Tbsp avocado or olive oil in a large cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering. Add the eggplant slices and sauté, shaking the pan occasionally, until the edges brown, about 3 minutes.

Flip the eggplant slices using a fork or offset spatula, then immediately transfer the pan to the oven. Roast the eggplant until cooked through and soft, about 10 minutes. Halfway through cooking, rotate the pan and add 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced scattering it among the eggplant slices.

Remove from the oven and transfer the eggplant to the bowl of a food processor. Add ½ Tbsp labneh (lebni), ½ Tbsp sesame paste, ½ Tbsp sumac, a pinch of piment d'Espelette or paprika, 1 tsp lemon juice, and ½ tsp salt to the food processor and pulse to a coarse purée.

You can store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, so make sure to use them on day one.


Marinate the raisins
Put 1 ½ cup (60ml) dry sherry and ½ a dried arbol chile in a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat; any flames will dissipate after 30 to 45 seconds (do not use high heat, as it will burn off the alcohol). Add ¼ cup (50g) golden raisins and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, discard the chile, and set aside. Let the raisins soak for at least 1 hour before using.


Set the trout to cure
Mix the 1 ½ Tbsp sugar, 1 ½ Tbsp salt, and ¾ Tbsp berberé on a large plate. Place a 200g piece of ocean trout on the plate and turn to evenly coat the fish on all sides with the sugar- salt-spice mixture. Set a rack over a rimmed baking sheet, put the fish on the rack, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Cure in the refrigerator for 1 hour, then rinse and pat completely dry with paper towels. Wrap tightly in plastic and store in an airtight container.


Mix the meat for meatballs and you’re done
We’re going to mix up the meat today and then use half for a meatball dish, and the other half for a pasta dish. Mix the ingredients as gently as possible so that the meatballs are tender and light.

Whisk together ½ cup (80ml) whole milk, ¼ cup (80g) white miso, and 2 eggs in a medium bowl. Add ½ cup (60g) grated pecorino cheese, 1 Tbsp berberé, 1 Tbsp finely chopped garlic, and 1 tsp salt and mix thoroughly. Whisk in ¼ cup (35g) caraway bread crumbs.

Gently mix 455g (1 lb) ground beef, 455g (1 lb) ground pork, 1/4 cup [60 g) currants and 1/4 cup (35 g) pine nuts with the milk-miso-and-egg mixture with your hands, or with one hand and a rubber spatula, being careful not to overwork the mixture.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge to cook this week.


Extra credit: Blackberry sesame cake with cardamom sugar
(If you’re exhausted, make this later in the week! It keeps for two days after it’s made)

Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a loaf pan with parchment paper, then butter and flour the bottom and sides.

Toast 4 tsp cardamom seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind the seeds to a fine powder in a spice grinder or using a mortar and pestle. Mix with 1 1/2 tsp of the sugar in a small bowl and set aside.

Sift 280g (2 ⅓ cups) flour, 1 Tbsp baking powder, and 1/4 tsp salt into another bowl. Mix 2 eggs, 1 cup (270g) plain yogurt, 1 cup (200 g) sugar, and ½ cup (120ml) avocado or vegetable oil with a wooden spoon in a large bowl. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine. Gently fold in 340g (2 cups) fresh blackberries, then transfer the batter into the pan.

Mix the remaining 1 Tbsp sugar, a pinch of salt, and ¼ cup (35g) sesame paste in a small bowl until blended; spread the sesame paste mixture all over the top of the cake and sprinkle with the cardamom sugar.

Bake until a knife or cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean (the internal temperature should be about 205°F [95°C]) , about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and cool completely, then remove from the pan. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

Store, covered in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days.

This is an excellent cake that you can justify for breakfast. I wasn’t prepared for how delicious the sesame topping is. My favourite part, though, is how the fruit doesn’t make the cake too soggy. I think blackberries are a great berry to use where…

This is an excellent cake that you can justify for breakfast. I wasn’t prepared for how delicious the sesame topping is. My favourite part, though, is how the fruit doesn’t make the cake too soggy. I think blackberries are a great berry to use where raspberries are a bit juicier and more delicate.

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Lunches

Lebni with eggplant purée, fava “hummus,” and za'atar

Toast ⅙ tsp white sesame seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown and fragrant, about 1 minute.

Set aside.

Smear ½ cup (140g) lebni between two plates, then put about 1 ½ Tbsp eggplant purée on top of one side of the lebni and another 1 ½ Tbsp fava "hummus” on top of the other side

Mix ⅛ cup (15g) za’atar and ⅛ cup (30ml)olive oil in a small bowl and drizzle all over the plate.

Sprinkle each plate with a pinch of sea salt, a pinch of piment d'Espelette or paprika, a pinch of sumac, some chopped fresh mint, and the toasted sesame seeds.

Serve with toasted country or sourdough bread for dipping.

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Tuscan kale with berberé-spiced meatballs and sherry raisins

Note bake the meatballs 30 minutes before you are going to eat

Heat the oven to 400°F [200°C].

Bake the meatballs: Make all the meatballs but only use half for this recipe. Save the rest for pasta later in the week. Form the meat mixture into golf ball-size meatballs (2 1/2 oz [70 g] each), gently rolling them into spheres with your hands. Arrange the meatballs on the parchment-lined baking sheet (they release a lot of juices). Bake until the internal temperature reaches 155°F (70°C] on an instant- read thermometer, 20 to 25 minutes. Store half the meatballs in the fridge.

While the meatballs are cooking:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Put 340g (1 bunch, 0.75 lb) tuscan kale leaves in a large heatproof colander and set the colander in your kitchen sink. Carefully pour the boiling water over the leaves. Run cold water over the kale until it's cool enough to handle, then gently squeeze the leaves to remove as much of the remaining water as possible. After a gentle wringing, you will end up with a log-shaped bundle of kale. Cut the kale crosswise into 3-in [5-cm] sections, gently pulling the leaves apart with your fingers. Set aside.

Halve 4 french breakfast radishes. Finely chop ½ tsp shallot. Finely chop ½ tsp fresh chives. Slice 1 garlic clove.

Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering. Add 4 french breakfast radishes, halved lengthwise and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they have caramelized and are cooked through but still have crunch, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chopped blanched kale and sauté until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Clear a small area along one side of the pan to cook the garlic. Add 1 Tbsp oil and add the garlic; as soon as the garlic starts to sizzle, stir it into the kale mixture so that it doesn't burn. Add salt, meatballs, shallot, chives, ½ tsp grated lemon zest, and a few grinds of black pepper. Give it a stir and remove the pan from the heat.

Divide between two plates. Squeeze the juice from the lemon over the kale mixture. Drain the sherry raisins and sprinkle over the top, along with the ½ tsp urfa biber shichimi togarashi. Serve immediately.

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Slow-roasted berberé-cured ocean trout with lemon tempura and citrus and olive salad

Note start cooking 1 hour out

Heat the oven to 200°F [95°C].

Remove the fish from the refrigerator and rub it with the 1 1/2 Tbsp avocado or olive oil. Put the fish on a rack set over the baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Roast until the fish is cooked through and meltingly tender, about 50 minutes. When you press gently on the fillet, its segments should separate easily. Remove the trout from the oven and set aside to cool for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the lemon tempura: Slice half a lemon into 3 mm slices using a mandoline if you have one.

Whisk together ⅜ cup (45g) flour, ½ cup (40g) cornstarch, ½ tsp baking soda, ½ tsp kosher salt, and 150ml (⅝ cups) ice-cold sparkling water in a large bowl to make a thin batter. The batter should coat the back of a spoon and have a nappe consistency (if you run your finger along the back of the coated spoon, you should see a clean line). Line a plate with paper towels.

Pour enough avocado or vegetable oil into a saucepan to come up the sides about 2 in [5 cm). Heat the oil over medium- high heat until it reaches 375°F (190°C] on a candy or deep-fry thermometer.

Dip the lemon slices, one at a time, into the batter and gently shake off any excess. As soon as you dip a lemon slice into the batter, use a fork or chopsticks to carefully place it into the hot oil. Fry the lemon slices, a few at a time, carefully flipping them once during cooking, until golden brown, about 1 minute on each side. Remove the lemon slices with the fork or chopsticks and place on the paper towel-lined plate to drain. Set aside. Reserve the pot with the oil.

Segment the grapefruits: Trim a little off the top and bottom of 1 grapefruit with a sharp knife so that there are two flat ends. Set the grapefruit flat on a cutting surface and cut away the peel and white skin from top to bottom, working your way around the fruit. Remove each citrus segment by cutting between the fruit and the membrane for each section; the wedges should release easily. Transfer to a medium bowl.

Repeat with 1 orange and 1 lemons and transfer to the same bowl. Set aside.

Cut 1 shallot into thin slices. Line a plate with paper towels. Pour out all but 1 Tbsp avocado or vegetable oil from the lemon tempura and heat over high heat until hot and shimmering.

Carefully add the shallots and cook, stirring continuously, until the shallots are caramelized and dark golden brown, about 2 minutes. During the last 30 seconds of cooking, add ⅛ cup (20g) black olives. Remove from the heat and transfer the shallots and olives to the paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt and set aside.

Add 0.25 bunch parsley (leaves only) and ¾ Tbsp olive oil to the citrus segments, followed by the shallots and olives. Mix gently and sprinkle with a pinch of flaky sea salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

The fish is ready! Gently flip the cooled trout over and peel and discard the skin. Gently scrape away the gray bloodline using a spoon. With the spoon, separate the fillet into large chunks along its segments.

Transfer the trout to a platter.

Scatter 1 scallion, thinly sliced on the bias on top, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt to taste and a couple of grinds of black pepper or a pinch of Aleppo pepper.

Put the lemon tempura and the citrus and olive salad on the same platter alongside the trout. Serve immediately.

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Dinners

Dinner
Hamachi crudo
with adjika, yuzu-dashi vinaigrette, avocado, and potato croquettes

Note put the potatoes in the oven 1.5 hours before you are going to eat

Start by making your potato croquettes: Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Prick 285g (1, 0.63 lb) russet potato(es) scrubbed but not peeled all over with the tines of a fork. Place them directly on an oven rack. Bake, rotating the potato(es) halfway through, until the potatoes give slightly when squeezed, like a slightly underripe avocado, 45 to 50 minutes. They should not be too soft or the texture inside the croquettes will be dense rather than light and fluffy.

When the potato(es) have been in for about 25 minutes, grate ⅛ cup (10g) aged white cheddar and set aside. Cut 140g (5 oz) hamachi into a large dice. Mince ½ tsp shallot. Finely chop ½ tsp fresh chives, grate ½ tsp lemon zest.

Gently mix the hamachi and 3 ½ tsp yuzu vinaigrette in a large bowl. Mix the shallot, chives, and lemon zest in a small bowl and add 1 tsp of the mixture to the seasoned hamachi. Keep a little bit for the avocado mixture. Set aside.

While the potatoes are still hot, very carefully peel them using a paring knife; discard the skins. Carefully grate the potatoes on the large holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Add half an egg yolk, ¼ tsp garlic powder, ¼ tsp onion powder, the cheddar, 1 ½ tsp cornstarch, kosher salt and a few grinds of black pepper and mix by hand until well combined. Form the mixture into 6 golf ball-size fritters (about 1 1/4 oz [35 g] each), rolling them into spheres with your hands. Lightly moisten your hands as needed if the potato mixture sticks.

Line a plate with paper towels.

Pour enough avocado or vegetable oil into a small pot to come up the sides about 2 in (5 cm). Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F (180°C) on a candy or deep-fry thermometer. Using a skimmer, carefully place three or four potato croquettes into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove the croquettes with the skimmer and place on the paper towel-lined plate to drain. Continue to fry the remaining croquettes, a few at a time. Transfer the croquettes to a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200°F [95°C] oven while you finish the crudo.

Dice a small, ripe avocado. Gently mix the avocado with ½ tsp fresh lime juice, ½ tsp kosher salt, several grinds of black pepper, and the remaining ½ tsp shallot-chive-zest mixture.

Divide the hamachi mixture among two plates. Drizzle 1 Tbsp adjika vinaigrette over the hamachi mixture. Divide the avocado mixture among the two plates, placing it next to the hamachi.

Place 2 or 3 potato croquettes on each plate alongside the hamachi and avocado, slightly crushing the croquettes with a fork.

Dollop crème fraîche on top of the hamachi.

Sprinkle each dish with a pinch of sea salt.

Serve immediately.

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Dinner
Tomato-dill pappardelle with berberé spiced meatballs and caraway bread crumbs

You’re making pasta! Put 180g (1 ½ cups) flour and ¾ tsp salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed until well combined. (If you don’t have a mixer, use the well method).

Add ½ egg, 2 egg yolks, and ¼ cup (60ml) cold water and mix on low speed until the dough is stiff and smooth, about 10 minutes. Remove the dough from the mixer, transfer it to a floured work surface, and knead it for 2 minutes (If you’re using the well method you will need to knead it for longer). Place the dough in a bowl, cover it with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Cut the dough into quarters and roll into logs. Work with one log at a time; cover the remaining dough with plastic wrap and set aside. Slightly flatten the unwrapped log of dough into an oval shape. Gently place the dough through the rollers of a pasta machine or the mixer's pasta attachment (If you don’t have, roll it with a pin), starting on the widest setting. Send it through the first setting again, then lightly dust the rolled pasta with flour. Reduce the setting of the rollers by one notch and place the dough through the rollers again.

Gently support the exiting dough with the back of your hand and lightly dust with flour. Continue to move the dough through the rollers, dusting with flour after each turn; reduce the thickness setting by one notch each time until you reach the third-to-thinnest setting (usually marked number 5 on a pasta machine).

As soon as you've finished rolling the dough, make sure it's well floured and fold the dough from each end until they meet in the middle. Fold end to end again. Cut the dough into 1-in- [5-cm-] wide strips. Place them on a rimmed baking sheet and cover with a kitchen towel until ready to cook. Roll each log of the remaining dough the same way.

Make the sauce: Grate 1/2 small red onion and slice 3 garlic cloves into thin slices. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add ⅛ cup (30ml) dry white wine. Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook for 1 minute so that the flavors meld.

Add 397g (0.5 x 28 oz) whole tomatoes with their juice, crushing them by hand as you add them, ½ tsp sherry vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Add the cooked meatballs and toss in the sauce. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in 4 basil leaves, torn and ½ tsp dill fronds.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pappardelle and cook until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta.

Divide the pasta among twp plates and top with the desired amount of tomato-dill sauce. Garnish with a little bit of extra dill. Top each plate with 1 or 2 Tbsp bread crumbs that you prepped, but only just before serving so that they stay crispy.

Serve immediately, passing the Pecorino Romano.

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Dinner
Sichuan pepper lamb top round with English pea and parsley salad

Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Toast the 1 Tbsp cumin seeds, ½ Tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp sichuan peppercorns, ½ tsp cubeb pepper*, and ½ tsp nigella seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind the spices to a fine powder in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Sift through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl and discard any hulls or stems. Add 1/4 of an onion, grated, ½ tsp urfa biber shichimi togarashi, 3 grinds of black pepper, and 1/2 tsp salt and stir to combine.

Put 0.63 lb (285g) lamb top round in the bowl and rub with the spice mixture so that it covers all sides of the meat. Set aside.

Heat 1 ½ Tbsp avocado or olive oil in an oven-safe sauté pan over high heat until hot and shimmering. Add the lamb and sear until all sides are well browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to the oven and roast until the internal temperature reaches 135°F [60°C] on a meat or instant-read thermometer, about 14 minutes.

Remove from the oven and transfer to a platter. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice water. Bring a pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Add ½ cup (80g) english peas and blanch until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the peas and transfer to the ice bath to cool. Drain the peas again and transfer to a large bowl.

Add 1/4 red onion, thinly sliced, 11g (¾ cups) fresh parsley leaves, ⅛ cup (2g) fresh mint leaves, 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tsp sherry vinegar, ½ Tbsp lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and a couple of grinds of black pepper and toss together.

Cut the lamb into slices across the grain and transfer to a platter.

Serve immediately with the English pea and parsley salad.

Note — if you skipped the cubeb pepper on your grocery list, substitute with 1:1 mix of black pepper and allspice or grains of paradise

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I didn’t find a lamb top round, but instead a boneless shoulder. So, I cooked it sous vide in the marinade for 6 hours, seared the outside in a skillet and sliced it up. I served this to my pal Will, who is one of two co-workers I’ve met face to face and the only one I’ve cooked for. The next day I used the leftover lamb in a coconut soup with ramen noodles and some leftover peas.The gift that keeps on giving.

I didn’t find a lamb top round, but instead a boneless shoulder. So, I cooked it sous vide in the marinade for 6 hours, seared the outside in a skillet and sliced it up. I served this to my pal Will, who is one of two co-workers I’ve met face to face and the only one I’ve cooked for. The next day I used the leftover lamb in a coconut soup with ramen noodles and some leftover peas.The gift that keeps on giving.